Popovers

I have one back-pocket recipe that can save any breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Special birthday breakfast on a school morning when we have to get out at 7:00 a.m.? Popovers. A soup pulled from the freezer that’s not quite as delicious as I remember it? Serve with popovers. Friends coming over with picky kids? Anything + popovers. Of course, I wish all my meals were flawless and delicious, and all my experiments came out cookbook-worthy. But for the meals that don’t quite make it, popovers save the day.

This is also a great recipe for kids, because once it’s in your blood, you can rely on it for life.

The blender, along with the hot oven, creates a lofty popover with a hollow center. Although you can buy a special fancy popover pan, this recipe works just fine in a regular muffin tin. If you prefer a more custardy popover, mix the ingredients by hand and bake in a 375°F oven for 30 to 35 minutes.

• 3 large eggs

• 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) whole milk or buttermilk

• 1 1/2 cups (180 g) all-purpose flour

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick/56 g) unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled

• Safflower oil or melted butter, for greasing the pan

• Optional: 1/4 cup fresh herbs; 4 ounces (115 g) chèvre

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Combine the eggs, milk, flour, salt, and butter in a blender. Blend until you have a smooth batter, 15 to 20 seconds. Let the batter rest for about 10 minutes.

2. Generously grease a 12-cup muffin or popover tin with oil. Divide the batter evenly among the cups, filling them most of the way. Add a pinch of fresh herbs and a dollop of chèvre, if using, to the center of each muffin cup. Bake until puffed and golden, WITHOUT OPENING THE OVEN, 25 to 28 minutes.

Serve immediately.