Leather Britches

Feeds 4-6

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound ham hock

• 1 onion, quartered

  Our South: Black Food Through My Lens Ashleigh Shanti

• 1⁄2 pound britches

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

In a medium pot, combine the ham hock and onion and add water to cover completely. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for a full minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the ham hock becomes tender. Uncover the pot and add the britches. Using a glass weight or small plate, weigh down the britches so they are fully submerged. Simmer for 1 hour, adding water as necessary to keep the britches submerged, then remove the weight and the ham hock. Set the ham hock aside to cool while the britches simmer for 1 hour more, until tender.

When the ham hock is cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bone and coarsely chop, discarding the bone. Return the meat to the pot of britches and season with salt and pepper. Serve the britches in bowls with a ladleful of the hot liquid.

To make britches, thread a needle with about 2 feet of darning thread or fishing line and tie a knot at one end to secure it. Thread about 1⁄2 pound of green beans onto the line, passing the needle through the center of each pod. Continue until the thread is filled with beans, leaving about 4 inches of space at each end. Tie the excess thread at each end into a loop; the threaded green beans will look like garland. Using the loops, hang the britches in a sunny window for at least 7 days or up to 14 days, until the green beans have shriveled and dried. Remove the britches from the string before using. Every good Southern chef has a grits recipe they believe is the best. This one is mine, and they really are that. These creamy, rich grits are special because I start with dried hominy, which gets soaked to double its size, then cooked slowly in butter, then blended to a smooth, velvety texture. These buttery bad boys are generous in umami and taste like they’ve got cheddar cheese running through them.

Recipe reprinted with permission from Our South: Black Food Through My Lens by Ashleigh Shanti © 2024. Published by Union Square & Co. Photographs © Johnny Autry.

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