Steve Jenkins says there are delights to be found in the cheese case during December. His picks of cheeses ready for holiday eating include selections from France, England, Spain, and America.

France: Look for Reblochon and any of the handmade Chevres made from September milk.

England: Farmhouse cheeses are the pick here, especially Stilton from August milk. Good choices include Cropwell Bishop, Long Clawson Dairy, and Colston Bassett.

Spain: Cabrales is the choice.

America: Seek out Major Farm's Vermont Shepherd Cheeses.